Article Wine Spectator 2 mars 2009

Wine Spectator Blog

Stirring the Lees with James Molesworth

Across the street is

Domaine de Beaurenard, where some of the good old boys of the appellation, brothers Daniel and Frédéric Coulon produce both superb red and white bottlings. Previous cellar note entries can be found here and here for this domaine, which combines old fashion hard work (some parcels are still plowed by horse) with a dash of modernity (some new oak) to create distinctive wines.

Two overlooked bottlings are the domaine’s Côtes du Rhône-Villages Rasteau 2007 and Côtes du Rhône-Villages Rasteau Cuvée Les Argiles Bleues 2007. The former, a blend of 80 percent Grenache with Syrah, shows delightful blueberry and raspberry fruit, with a fresh, spice box-filled finish. The latter (made from the same 80/20 Grenache/Syrah mix) is sourced from 45-year-old vines on blue clay soils and delivers its typical blueberry cobbler aroma, along with Linzer torte, cocoa and graphite notes and a long, stylish finish. Both are potentially outstanding.

The Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2007 has been blended and is awaiting its mis. It’s fine-grained and elegant for the vintage, with red, black and purple fruits laid over a mouthwatering graphite note. The Châteauneuf-du-Pape Boisrenard 2007 is the domaine’s top cuvée, sourced from the Coulons' oldest vines. The blend has almost been finalized and is slated to be bottled in May. It shows the flashy spice and inviting mocha aromatics it’s known for, but it has already completely absorbed its oak (it is aged in barrel, 20 percent of which is new oak).

“The ’07 married with the oak right away,” said Frédéric.

The wine shows gorgeous mouthfeel, along with Turkish coffee, date bread, currant paste and warm fig sauce notes. It should rival the estate’s sublime 2001 for top honors in the history of the cuvée, which debuted in 1990.